Montreal to Quebec

Introducing Montréal to Québec City


There’s so much charm packed into this idyllic stretch of pastoral patchwork between Québec’s two metropolises that it’s bursting at the borders. Kick back and stay awhile to enjoy the picture postcard scenery of the Eastern Townships and take in the unique bilingual atmosphere that constant American tourist traffic to this area has fostered. Alternatively, the Mauricie region – from Trois-Rivières north to Lac St Jean and following the flow of the mighty St Maurice River – has been known to snatch unsuspecting visitors in search of wild, unadulterated natural beauty.

The Trans-Canada Hwy (Hwy 20) cuts a straight path to Québec City from Montréal. The Eastern Townships are nestled between here and the Vermont border, mainly along Hwy 10; Mauricie falls to the north of Hwy 20 along Hwy 40.

Charlevoix & Baie St. Paul

Introducing Charlevoix


Hold up a blade of Charlevoix grass and you’ll see it bend in the breeze of contentment that wafts through the region’s flowery farmlands. For 200 years, this pastoral strip of rolling hills has been a summer retreat for the wealthy and privileged. Routes 138 and 362 are the main activity in towns nestling happily between the St Lawrence and parks such as the taiga-covered Parc des Grand Jardins, named by the English after its resemblance to their country gardens.

Unesco has classified the entire area a World Biosphere Reserve, which has resulted in worthwhile restrictions on the types of permitted developments, as well as a palpable sense of pride among residents. There’s also a lot to be proud of in towns such as the almost impossibly relaxing Baie St Paul (see below). The ateliers (artists’ studios), galleries and boutiques lining its few streets hark back to the artists who, in the late 19th century, gravitated to Charlevoix to paint landscapes as a nationalistic exercise.

Charlevoix is also known as a center for the culinary arts and was at the forefront of the organic food movement in Canada 10 years ago. The Route des Saveurs (Route of Flavors) takes in 16 farms and eateries, including the home of Éboulmontaise lamb and one of Québec’s best restaurants. Local menus generally read like inventories of Charlevoix produce.

The area totals 6000 sq km yet is home to just 30, 000 people. Glacier-carved crevices, cliffs and jagged rock faces overlook a unique geographical feature: the immense valley formed by a prehistoric meteor. A space rock weighing 15 billion tons, with a diameter of about 2km, smashed into the earth here at 36, 000km/hr some 350 million years ago, leaving a crater measuring 56km in diameter. The point of impact was the present-day Mont des Éboulements, halfway between Baie St Paul and La Malbaie, some 10km inland.

A driving route to consider is taking the ‘River Drive’ (Rte 362) one way and returning through ear-popping hills on the ‘Mountain Drive’ (Rte 138) inland.


Introducing Baie St Paul


The clowning, juggling troupe Cirque du Soleil may have started out in Baie St Paul, but most of the entertainment here is of a gentler nature. The small town boasts some 30 galleries and ateliers, along with historic houses converted into superb restaurants and gîtes. With its prosperous, holiday atmosphere and its location among wood-covered hills at the meeting of the St Lawrence and Gouffre Rivers, Baie St Paul is one of the north shore’s most appealing towns.

Striking Landscape & Rusting Shipwrecks & Whale Watching

Introducing Gaspé Peninsula


The promontory known locally as ‘La Gaspésie’ is one of those remote rural areas that generates all manner of myths among folk who, generally, have never been there. You can take these urban myths with a pinch of sea salt from the St Lawrence gulf, but they do prove that Gaspé has etched itself into the Québécois imagination.

The remnants of a colorful colonial past can be seen on a coastline that bulges into the gulf, overlooking rusting shipwrecks and migratory whales. Like the whales, Normans, Bretons, Basques, Portuguese and Channel Islanders were attracted by the rich fishing grounds. English, Scottish and Irish fugitives from upheavals such as the Great Famine and American independence settled on the south shore, leaving isolated Anglophone communities where the accents have more in common with the Old World lilts than classic Canadian cadence. Flags erected by the descendents of Acadian settlers flutter above Rte 132.

Between the small communities’ colorful farm buildings and silver spires, the landscape is also striking. There’s the famous pierced rock in Percé, of course, and there are endless beaches overshadowed by glacier-patterned cliffs. The mountainous, forested hinterlands, home to the breathtaking Parc de la Gaspésie, are crossed by few routes, among them the Matapedia Valley drive, the International Appalachian Trail and Rte 198, one of the province’s quietest roads.

In contrast with the brooding north shore, the southern Baie des Chaleurs, named after its relatively warm waters, has a flat, calm landscape. Come here to unwind after the emotional experience of the rest of Gaspé. Throughout the peninsula, the tourist season runs from about June to mid-September. Outside those times, things seriously wind down, and from November to mid-May the main activity you’ll see will be the waves crashing against the rocks.

Whale Watching

Introducing Forillon National Park

Covering Gaspé’s northeastern-most tip, this small park (418-368-5505; www.pc.gc.ca/for illon; adult/child/senior/family $7/3.50/6/17.50; reception 10am-5pm early Jun–mid Oct, park 24hr) feels a fitting place to end a journey along the top of the peninsula. Its rugged sea cliffs attract seabirds, including great blue herons, and whales and seals make frequent appearances offshore. Inland are rolling, forest-covered hills, where you might come across moose, deer, fox and, increasingly, black bears.

There are two main entrances with visitors centers where you can pick up maps: one at L’Anse au Griffon, east of Rivière au Renard on Rte 132, and another on the south side of the park at Penouille.

Quebec Restaurants A-L

Restaurants In Quebec
1.
Aspara

I'm in Québec, so why would I want Asian food? Because since 1982 this has been one of the best, tastiest and most consistently good places in town. The mix of Cambodian, Thai and Vietnamese plates utilizing lemongrass, spicy peanut sauces, rice and delicate noodles is outstanding. The upmarket room with soft Oriental music suits the kitchen's high standards. Try the poulet oudong (chicken sautéed in ginger) or the shrimps sautéed in lemongrass.

Read more about Aspara
2.
Aux Anciens Canadiens

Housed in the historic Jacquet House which dates from 1676, this place is all about robust country cooking and typical Québécois specialties. Wait-staff in historic garb serve dishes like caribou in blue berry wine sauce, duckling in maple syrup sauce, or Lac St-Jean meat pie served with pheasant and buffalo casserole. Lunch is by far the best deal: around C$15 gets you a main course, soup, glass of wine or beer and dessert.

Read more about Aux Anciens Canadiens
3.
Aux Vieux Canons

The staff are friendly, the menu spills over with hearty eastern European fare, it has a terrific location on a bustling section of Grand-Allée, but the reason to make a bee-line to this place? The spectacular beers on offer and the glasses they're served in - glasses so tall, so narrow, so precariously filled, they come with a wooden brace to support them. Camp out here with a tall one after a long day of sightseeing.

Read more about Aux Vieux Canons
4.
Buffet de l'Antiquaire

Tucked in among the bistros and the galleries, this frenetic little diner complete with chefs in pointy paper hats and 'don't-screw-with-me' waitresses sporting whiskey voices and plenty of swagger. Take in the atmosphere while scarfing down the uncomplicated, comfort food from spaghetti to fish fillets on offer daily.

Read more about Buffet de l'Antiquaire
5.
Café Krieghoff

This brilliant little resto is a city classic, with a varied bistro menu and some of the best coffee in town. There's an extensive breakfast menu and they'll let you substitute veggie pâté for the bacon and sausage in most dishes. The dining room is decorated with reproductions from one of Québec's master painters, Cornelius Krieghoff (1815-72), who lived just down the street from here on Grande-Allée.

Read more about Café Krieghoff
6.

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7.
Café Le Sultan

This warm cozy café is head and shoulders above the normal, soulless Lebanese fast-food restaurant. There's hookah pipes in the windows, music playing in the background, oriental tapestries and petit, tiny tables set up to eat from. The service isn't particularly friendly but the atmosphere is terrific. Try the mergez or salad plate.

Read more about Café Le Sultan
8.
Carthage

This BYO Tunisian restaurant offers couscous, meat and vegetarian specials, all lightly spiced. Tables and chairs fill the colorful room while at the tables by the windows, patrons kneel on cushions in traditional style.

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9.
Casse-Crêpe Breton

Tiny and unassuming, this find specializes in hot, fresh crêpes of every kind starting as low as around C$4 . Some diners like to sit at the counter and watch the chef at work.

Read more about Casse-Crêpe Breton
10.
Chez Ashton

You will have to eat at this Québec City fast-food institution at least once. There are dozens of stores all over town all serving up what people from Québec City swear is the best poutine in the province (Montrealers, of course, usually don't agree). Classic poutine is on offer along with Ashton specials like poutine with peas or sausage.

Read more about Chez Ashton
11.
Chez Temporel

This no-frills, out-of-sight café on a quiet side street has got heaps of attention from France heavyweights Voici and Guide du Routard to the New York Times . The breakfast fare is definitely worth the trip: they cook their own croissants and serve up perfect (yes perfect) café au lait. Service is generally disinterested but efficient. The sandwiches, soups and salads served the rest of the day are good, but not worth a trip in and of themselves.

Read more about Chez Temporel
12.

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13.
Conti Caffe

Recently opened on the busy rue St-Louis drag, this is a wonderful addition to the many area tourist traps (ie locals come here too). With exposed brick walls and simple white table clothes it still manages to look urban and modern but with a terrific warm and welcoming wait-staff. The menu has a great range of prices and dishes such as good pasta (from around C$14 ), veal dishes (from around C$20 ), seafood or game like duck with herbed crust ($21).

Read more about Conti Caffe
14.
Downtown

Fun, relaxed and reasonable, this place is especially popular for lunch during the week. All the usual suspects are featured on the menu including salmon and beef tartare with fries and salads, along with pasta dishes and all-you-can-eat mussels (around C$16 ). Inside it's cozy with exposed brick walls, and there's none of the nervous energy of a lot of other bistro-type eateries in town. A children's menu is also available.

Read more about Downtown
15.
L'Ardoise

This place just keeps racking up the praise, and it's easy to see why. Not only does it have a mouth-watering bistro menu with beautifully turned out classics like confit de canard , along with tantalizing twists like caribou medallions, horse steak and duck with blueberry sausage. To top if off, the setting is stunning; tiffany style lamps hang from the ceiling, along with all manner of greenery. It's cluttered, cosy and bright.

Read more about L'Ardoise
16.
L'Échaudé

A classic little bistro with a refreshingly relaxed and non-stuffy wait staff. This is one of the nicest bistros in the Old Town. It's steak and salmon tartares have won a loyal following making l'Échaudé one of the odd places in the Old Town where locals regularly outnumber the tourists. It also has a terrific wine list favoring bottles from France. The lunch table d'hôte is often around C$15 , while the evening table d'hôte starts at around C$25 .

Read more about L'Échaudé
17.
L'Utopie

The loyalty of Québec City locals to Le Saint Amour may seem inviolable, but l'Utopie is winning their affection slowly but surely. It's got a focused menu highlighting tuna, stag and deer dishes. The wonderful lunch table d'hôte includes classics like confit de canard and pavé de saumon . Everything is served in a bright, open space with an exposed wine cellar. Bunches of slender birch trees separate the tables and reach towards the ceiling.

Read more about L'Utopie
18.

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19.
Largo Resto-Club

The bouillabaisse (around C$25 ) is one of its most popular dishes but the Mediterranean-inspired menu offers up everything from Moroccan dishes to salmon tartare. Besides being an enthusiastic promoter of jazz music Largo also does gallery duty, showing off the work of local painters and sculptors.

Read more about Largo Resto-Club
20.
Laurie Raphaël

Laurie Raphaël isn't just a restaurant. It's an experience. The dining room is bright, modern and simple, letting the food take center stage. The menu keeps its focus on produits du terroir , or local Québec produce. Chef Daniel Vézina keeps menu descriptions to the minimum saying he wants to 'leave room for imagination and discovery.' There's also a chef's menu that's decided at the last minute 'for those that like to be surprised.'

Read more about Laurie Raphaël
21.
Le Café Du Clocher Penché

This café serves classy, classic bistro fare and proudly shows off local products like Québec cheeses. What sets it apart are the one-of-a-kind weekend brunches. Brioche comes with caramelized pears, home-made crème fraîche, caramel sauce and almonds. An English muffin is served with veggie pâté, poached eggs, cheddar cheese, pesto vinaigrette, roasted potatoes and vegetarian chili. Brunch reservations strongly recommended.

Read more about Le Café Du Clocher Penché
22.
Le Café Du Monde

This Paris-style bistro is the only restaurant in town directly on the St Lawrence River. Bright, airy and casually elegant (no need to dress up) it has been a local favorite for years, swearing by bistro classics like steak frites and saucisse de Toulouse . The menu is extensive and authentic and there's a magnificent choice of dishes like escargot with pernod, confit de canard , pasta and local cheeses. The accent is on local Québec products.

Read more about Le Café Du Monde
23.
Le Cochon Dingue

Serving visitors and locals straight-ahead French standbys since 1979, this is an ever-popular people's choice. From café au lait en bôl to croque monsieur (around C$12 ), sandwiches, salads, mussels or quiche, it's all good day-to-day food and a kid-friendly place to boot. There's outside seating in warm weather for watching the crowds shuffling by.

Read more about Le Cochon Dingue
24.

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25.
Le Commensal

An endless choice of terrific vegetarian dishes, with vegan and organic options, are served caféteria-style in this huge and bright location. Interesting pickings to consider include casseroles with seitan, millet or soy protein, and vegetarian twists on Québécois standards like pâté chinois . It's all sold by weight, so if you load up the plate the first time around, the final bill may shock. If maple sugar pie is on offer be sure to try it.

Read more about Le Commensal
26.
Le Grain De Riz

Emerging as a foodie favorite, this Western-Asian fusion restaurant offers a range of 'modernized' Vietnamese and Chinese dishes, but it's the chef's inspiration menu where things get interesting. Try the chicken with Earl Grey cream sauce served on curried couscous (around C$26 ) or crispy coconut shrimps served with spicy mango salsa (around C$27 ). The dining room is cozy and approachable staff give good tips on navigating the complex menu flavors.

Read more about Le Grain De Riz
27.
Le Lapin Sauté

Look for the rabbit-crossing sign as you make your way down the street. This tidy, appealing restaurant specializes in country cooking. Though its equally adept at salmon, duck and chicken the stars here are the rabbit dishes like rabbit pie and rabbit in maple syrup. There's also a lovely little patio open during warm weather.

Read more about Le Lapin Sauté
28.
Le Marie-Clarisse

Arguably the best seafood restaurant in town, the wait-staff is fantastic, the atmosphere dark, cozy and tucked off the climbing stairs on rue du Petit-Champlain. All fish is fresh, and the menu changes daily depending on what seafood is available in the market, but the marmite (fish stew) at around C$31 is their best known and classic dish.

Read more about Le Marie-Clarisse
29.
Le Panache

Accolades for this restaurant and chef François Blais's new takes on Québec cuisine haven't stopped, but diners reactions are mixed. With flavor combos like guinea hen and duck foie gras served with honey emulsion, Le Panache will nevertheless be on hard-core foodies' 'must' lists. Experts will go into raptures over the wine list. The dining room is done up like a huge, luxurious log cabin.

Restaurants in Quebec L-V

Restaurants

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1.
Le Petit Cochon Dingue

Just down the street from Le Cochon Dingue, this is a small, terrific place to go for a coffee, dessert or a quick panini. Staff are lovely and helpful and keep the crowds moving.

Read more about Le Petit Cochon Dingue
2.
Le Petit Coin Latin

For a French-style breakfast, try this excellent, very European spot near rue St-Jean for croissants, muffins or eggs. In summer you can eat the low-priced lunch specials out on the patio.

Read more about Le Petit Coin Latin
3.
Le Postino

Prime people-watching real-estate at the heart of St-Roch coupled with friendly, unpretentious wait staff makes this place a winner and you haven't even eaten yet. There's plenty of pasta dishes on the menu for around C$10 - C$12 and a fantastic choice of risottos with genius combinations like rabbit, roasted parsnips, caramelized shallots and wild mushrooms.

Read more about Le Postino
4.
Le Saint Amour

Yes it's expensive, but it's the darling of the provincial capital. The house specialty is foie gras and it can come seared, as a crème brûlée, as terrine maison ...you get the idea. There's over 10,000 bottles of wine in the cellar. Service is warm and intelligent and the dining room is flooded with natural light streaming through the pointed glass ceiling. PS - the lunch table d'hôte is often less than around C$20 .

Read more about Le Saint Amour
5.
Paillard Café-Boulangerie

This is a gorgeous old warehouse-like space with impossibly high ceilings and enormous bay windows looking out onto the street. It's a bit of a madhouse during lunch as people clamor for ham sandwiches with green apples, brie cheese, Dijon mustard and rosemary oil or hot roast beef sandwiches with blue cheese, caramelized onions and horseradish. The kids menu has things like peanut butter and banana sandwiches. There's also an attached bakery.

Read more about Paillard Café-Boulangerie
6.

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7.
Rôtisserie Ste-Angèle

Totally charming, particularly the attic-like 2nd floor, this side-street restaurant with a patio features a range of chicken dishes, such as barbecue and coq au vin, but there's also salmon and other meat mains. A kids' menu is available.

Read more about Rôtisserie Ste-Angèle
8.
Soñar

Done up with a bit of glitz and a bit of slick, this fantastic tapas bar is perfect for light suppers or evening-long grazing. There's a sidewalk terrace out front if it's warm. Skip the main dishes, the reason to come here is the artfully served tapas. There's a huge range from Portobello mushrooms stuffed with feta and dates to fried calamari and tortillas. The ambience is nightclub minimalism.

Read more about Soñar
9.
Times Café

Another terrific 'non-stuffy' addition to the upper town. This eatery serves Mediterranean food in a beautifully designed space with fire-engine red tables, black and white zebra-stripped chairs and moody blue lighting. Staff are remarkably friendly given the trendy atmosphere. Pizzas and sandwiches run from around C$10 - C$14 while the veal or seafood dishes can go anywhere from C$18 - C$30 .

Read more about Times Café
10.
Voodoo Grill

Described by the owners as a 'restaurant/museum,' this place is an experience. African and Asian statues peer down at the tables and the dining room is done up in dark, complex colors. The staff all look like they've stepped out of a fashion shoot and on Friday and Saturday nights this place definitely has more of a club feel. Specialties include wok meals, huge Asian soups and mega-salads. A four-service 'surprise' chef's menu is around C$55 .

Grocery Store like no other

Ja Moisan Épicier

Established in 1871 this is considered the oldest grocery store in North America. The store is beautifully set up and fun just to browse - ever seen black-and-white zebra-striped bow pasta? The products do generally fall on the 'You've got to be kidding!' side of expensive but there will be products here you've never seen before along with heaps of local produits du terroir .

Candy Museum

Choco-Musée Érico

The exotic smells and sheer number of flavors here will have a chocolate-lover go into absolute conniptions of joy. Try strawberry and basil truffles or the ice cream that comes in orange pekoe tea and beet-and-raspberry flavors. Or go for the chocolate-chip cookie packed with semi-sweet chocolate chunks, dates and black tea. There's a little museum in the back and a window where you can watch the chocolatiers do their work.

Toy Store -- FAO Schwartz of Canada?

Benjo

This toy shop/children's paradise gives you a glimpse into what the world would be like if adults were overthrown and kids were running things instead. Even the front door is pint-sized (the adult-sized door is off to the side). There's a train that goes around the store on weekends, and arts and crafts for little ones during the week (usually around C$10 - C$15 ). Evening craft workshops for Moms are on Wednesday. Call for times.